March 15. I breakfasted this morning in company with my Tours friends at Mr. Cramer’s, an English gentleman, married to a French lady, whose brother and sister also formed a part of the family; the former had just returned from the army in Spain, and seemed to find such an essential difference between the comforts of his brother’s house and the miseries of a Spanish campaign, that he proposed spending a considerable time with him. Mr. Cramer I should however suppose is little calculated to be comfortable in French society; for his serious and studious disposition could not well assimilate with the frivolity of French manners and conversation.

After. breakfast we visited the castle of Amboise, situated on the rocky height overhanging the town. Its antiquity is dated to the first of the Roman emperors. In it were born Francis the First, Hugh Capet and Charles the Seventh: the latter prince as well as Louis the XI. also died in it. After passing through many hands, it became the property of the late Duke de Penthievre, and when wrested from him at the revolution, was converted into a state prison; at present it belongs to a senator.

At one angle of the castle is a round tower, within which a carriage with six horses may ascend from the town to the courtyard of the castle; in the centre of the tower is shewn the remains of an Oubliette, destined for the punishment of state criminals, in the reign of Charles XI; during which upwards of four thousand persons of rank suffered death in public or private. Amongst those of the first consequence, were, the Constable de St. Paul and his brother-in-law the Count d’Armagnac. The Duke de Nemours was shut up in an iron cage, by order of this sanguinary monster, and as a refinement in cruelty, when brought to execution at Paris, the King ordered his children to be held under the scaffold to be sprinkled with the blood of their father.

But to return to the Oubliette: it is a wall forty feet in diameter, and about one hundred feet deep; wooden rollers were placed across it at certain distances, turned round by machinery, and to which were fixed several two edged knives. The victim being precipitated into the abyss, and falling from one roller to another, was minced to pieces before he reached the bottom. As this punishment was always inflicted secretly, and the victim never more heard of, it received the appropriate name of les Oubliettes.

In this castle the sanguinary Louis XI. instituted the order of St. Michel, in 1649. In the chapel are preserved the horns of a deer, (killed in remote times in a hunt,) which between the points are twelve feet eight inches French; the ribs of the same animal were six feet four inches long. We were shewn the apartments occupied by the unfortunate Princess de Lamballe, and those of the amiable and virtuous daughter of the Duc de Penthievre, the wife of the abominable Egalité. Voltaire was once governor of this castle. It is now fitting up for the residence of the Senator, to whom it has been granted; but the modern stile of the furniture does not at all harmonize with the antique appearance of the apartments. From a balcony inclosed by an iron railing and entered from one of the windows, is a noble view of the river. This balcony was formerly the place of execution of state criminals, and the blood of one victim was seldom dry on it before it was again wet with that of another, during the civil wars of the Guises and Condés, in the reign of Charles IX. and during the administration of Catharine [sic] de Medicis.

The gardens of the castle are curiously laid out, and contain a number of scarce plants. An Acacia tricanthus particularly struck me from its enormous size, having the dimensions of a timber tree. Of the branches of this species of thorn was formed the crown placed on the head of our Saviour at his crucifixion. There is also a pleasant walk formed and shaded by evergreens, and a Cesar’s camp in view.

Leaving the castle of Amboise we visited the château of Chanteloup, about half a league distant, situated on an eminence, a little way from the banks of the Loire, of which it commands a fine view. It belonged to the celebrated Duc de Choiseul, and hither he retired when exiled from court. Lord Bolingbroke, when banished from England, also resided in this château. It is at present the property of M. Chaptal, ci-devant apothecary and chemist, and now Secretary to the Senate and Comte de l’Empire. The gardens are laid out in the antient stile of formal walks and regular parterres; and there is an artificial piece of water on the domain on which was a boat intended for sailing, but rigged in such an uncouth manner as certainly to be unmanageable. The dullness that reigned throughout could not fail to affect us, when we reflected on the scenes of gaiety and pleasure which formerly made the walls resound. The old concierge, who shewed the château, told us that he had often seen fifty different bed-chambers occupied by visitors, and thirty to forty carriages, with four and six horses each, parade before the gate every morning. The company were not only accommodated with horses and carriages, but dogs and guns were at the command of those who chose to shoot, while a pack of hounds afforded those fond of nobler sport the pleasure of hunting the wild boar and deer.

The present possessor seems to neglect this mansion, as if he was still uncertain whether he might not be again called on to restore it to its rightful owner. Two or three rooms only are simply furnished, to serve for a day or two’s visit, and all the rest present the naked walls; even the tapestry hangings having been torn down and the glasses removed. The stables and out-offices were equally empty, with the exception of some appropriated to Merino sheep, of which M. Chaptal has here a flock of sixteen hundred. These animals have furnished a considerable object of speculation since the invasion of Spain; all the generals serving in that country, and possessed of lands in France, having taken the opportunity of sending vast numbers to their estates. When I past through Bourdeaux there were six thousand head for sale, on account of General Beliard, which, allowing then to bring the low price of three louis a head, makes no small addition to the other trifles the General could not have failed to pick up in Spain: for nothing in the way of plunder comes amiss to a Frenchman; and we may safely wager, that if France was to wage war in Circassia, the Grand Seignior’s harem would be replenished by the French generals.

The person charged with the care of M. Chaptal’s Merinos, informed me that the increase of lambs enabled him to dispose of sheep to the amount of eighty thousand francs a year. The wool sells for three francs the pound, and the average weight of a fleece is ten pounds.

March 16. Pursuing my journey from Amboise, I crossed the Loire by two bridges; one of stone, extending from the left bank of the river to an island, and the second of wood, joining the island to the right bank. The country still continued extremely fertile and well cultivated, and I observed that vetches were more attended to here than in any part of the country I had yet passed through. The river Loire is navigated by barges of considerable size, but of the clumsiest construction, with an immense rudder and a long tilter, the traversing end of which is above the head of the man that steers.

Two leagues from Amboise is the château of Chenonceau, built by Bonier, a general under Francis the First, and the residence of the beautiful Diana de Poitiers, mistress to Henry the Second. It afterwards was successively occupied by Catherine de Medicis, by the Princes of Vendome and Condé, and by Monsieur du Pin, fermier-général. At present it belongs to Monsieur Villeneuve, Chamberlain to the King of Holland.

On the opposite bank of the Loire to the village of Eu, where we fed our horses, is another château, of an ancient and respectable appearance, with many towers, and commanding an extensive view of the river. It belongs to Monsieur Ré, an ancient noble. On my arrival at Blois, I put up at the Boule d’Or, and was put into a good looking apartment, in which was a glass through the chimney, that afforded a beautiful view down the lower end of its handsome bridge. My dinner here was very bad, and rendered still more disagreeable, by the intrusion and impertinence of the cook, who every moment entered the room to demand, “Eh bien, Monsieur l’Anglois, comment trouvez-vous votre dîner?” adding, “On dit que les euisiniers de votre pays ne sont pas trop habiles.” –– I replied, “if that is the case, you may be assured they wont [sic] come to you to learn, for of all attempts at cookery I ever met with, yours is the very worst.” This fellow now entered on a defence of his cookery, which I put a stop to, by inquiring if there was nothing else dressed in the house? He disappeared, and soon after returned with a roast duck, a bird to which of all others I have the most mortal aversion; I therefore, to the astonishment of the cook, threw it dèliberately into the fire, and sent the other dishes after it; at the same time desiring Monsieur le Cuisinier to take himself off, if he did not wish to follow them. Soon after his quitting the room, a great, stout, impudent looking girl entered, and, with a sort of officious raillery, asked me, “if I wanted a bonne amie, for if so she was at my service?” I retorted in her own manner, by saying, “indeed, Mademoiselle, your manners are so engaging, that there is no resisting you; but at present I shall not trouble you farther than to desire you will clear the table, and bring me some wood.” When she returned, the cook accompanied her, and both began a species of banter, which not approving, I desired them to call the landlord; on whose appearance I asked him, “if the revolution was not yet over?” and on his answering, “yes,” continued, “then, Monsieur, you ought to inform these bêtes, that there again exists in France a distinction of rank and persons; –– therefore, either make them immediately quit the room, or order my horses, and I shall depart from your house.” This remonstrance had the desired effect, and I passed the rest of the evening without farther molestation.

March 17. The following morning I walked out early, and ascended a steep hill, on which is the castle famous on account of the assassination of the Duke de Guise. Its elevated situation gives it the complete command of the town, and of a fine and extensive view. It has a considerable square, with two fronts, formerly very grand, but now going fast to decay, and used as a barrack; the avenues to it are also in a shamefully dirty and degraded state. Below the castle, on the side of the hill, is the prefecture, beautifully situated, with some handsome gardens and walks, in good order.

The prefect of a department in France is the highest civil officer, and may be assimilated, as to his functions, to our lord lieutenant of a county; all the civil offices of the department, such as roads, civil buildings, bridges, &c. being within his resort, as well as the embodying of the national guard and the levying of conscripts. He is attended by a guard of gend’armes, when he visits any part of the department; has a house found by Government, and receives a very good salary. He always resides in the chief town of the department; and in one of the secondary towns is usually a sous-préfet, subordinate to the prefect, whose house is also found by Government, with a good salary.

The maires of towns are the next civil officers to the sous-préfets; they are elected annually, and receive no salary or other emoluments, except what they can abstract from the money belonging to the town, which passes through their hands.

This was the day, although Sunday, for drawing the conscription; and in order to drown sorrow, those who were to ballot had recourse to the wine bottle, and were playing at a variety of games. This appears to be greatly encouraged by the magistrates, in order to prevent the discontent that results from this abhorred measure. Indeed, in every respect, it seems to be the chief principle of the French government to suppress the murmurs of the people, by pompous declamations on the glory of la grande nation, by occasionally giving them representations at the theatres gratis, and by frightening them with the idea of being conquered by the English, whom their Emperor decorates with the title of tigers of the sea.”

Blois is the chief town of the department of the Loire and Cher, and the seat of the various courts of law. It is built on the side of a hill, and contains about five thousand inhabitants, but the streets are so narrow and steep, that in some places they are formed by flights of steps. The bridge across the Loire is very handsome, being of cut stone, with several elliptical arches, an iron railing and lamps on the battlement, and a flagged pathway on each side, kept clean, which is a very unusual thing in France.

After breakfast I continued my journey over the bridge, in order to visit the château of Chambor, at which I arrived, after crossing a most intricate country, the roads consisting of mere pathways. The approach to the castle (an immense pile, with many large towers, and some lesser ones, crowned with spires), is by a very long avenue, through an extensive wood of fine full grown trees. The entrance is through a square, the sides of which form the offices, and are of great extent. The hall is extremely grand, and the ceiling forms a superb dome; the staircase is double, and winds round a pillar in such a manner, that persons may ascend and descend at the same moment, without the knowledge of each other. The whole is of massive stone.

This château was, I think, built by Francis the First, of whose reign there are many magnificent vestiges in France. It was possessed by Marshal Saxe, who died here; and the marble table was shewn me on which this great man had been embalmed, previous to his being sent to Strasburg to be interred.

The ceilings of the apartments, though much decayed, still shew proofs of their ancient elegance. The salle de spectacle, in the centre of the building, is spacious, and was lined with very large pier glasses the spaces they occupied are visible, but the glasses were destroyed in the revolution. The panes of glass in the windows exceeded four feet square. The park was more than fifteen miles round. In short, every thing evinces that Chambor was formerly one of the finest palaces of France.

It being already evening when I quitted the château, I was at a loss where to put up for the night; but on inquiry, learnt that the village of St. Diey was only a league distant. I therefore proceeded thither, and found it a poor place. On stopping at the house to which I had been recommended, I found the landlord so very drunk and the house so uncomfortable, that I left my servants and horses there, and proceded to another, where, although the fare was but middling, I was more comfortable. I had scarcely finished my dinner, when the adjoint, or deputy to the mayor, entered with the first landlord in the uniform of a gend’arme. The adjoint interrogated me in an overbearing manner, and concluded by informing me that I must go to prison, my account of myself being very unsatisfactory; and that persons of my description going through the country might be attended with imminent danger to the state.” Rotten state, thought I; if such is the case, your foundation cannot be more solid than this blockhead’s understanding! As, however, I was in the fellow’s power, policy directed me to be civil, and asking him to sit down and take a glass of wine, I observed to him that, “my feuille de route being in every respect regular, pointing out a certain day for my arrival at the depot, and ordering that I was not to be molested, but that I was to receive every assistance and facility from the authorities, to pursue my journey, he could scarcely answer for detaining me on the suggestion of a drunken landlord, who was jealous because I preferred another house to his.” I concluded by informing him, that, “if he persisted in sending me to prison, I should state the business to the Minister of War, and he might expect the most serious consequences.” This remonstrance had some effect, and he contented himself with informing me, that I must return to Blois the following morning with a gend’arme, where they could act more decisively.

March 18. I accordingly returned to Blois, escorted by a gend’arme and my first landlord, and the distance being only a league and half, over a beautiful turf, I enjoyed an excellent gallop, which repaid me for the detention. I was first escorted to the residence of the mayor, and thence to the commune; but not meeting with this magistrate, I was taken to the senior officer of the troops, who remanded me back to the mayor. This gentleman was now at home, and received me with true French politeness, telling me, with many bows, that my “air distingué ought to have been a sufficient passport;” adding, that “I must excuse the ignorance of village magistrates; but that when I entered a town, I should be sure to meet with les hommes d’esprit et raisonnables.” “Certainly, M. le Maire,” replied I, “this observation is proved in the present instance;” and having thus returned his compliment with an equal sincerity, after much scraping, we parted.

My quondam landlord and the gend’arme looked as if they expected to be paid for their trouble; but instead of giving them any money, I begged they would “present my compliments to Monsieur l’Adjoint, and tell him that I hoped he would recompense them for the unnecessary trouble he had given them.”

I now pursued my journey through a beautiful and highly cultivated country, and by a very broad road, but much in want of repair. About two leagues from Blois I stopped to look at the demesne of Menaro, once the residence of the celebrated Madame de Polignac, and now a magnificent ruin. The gardens are cut into terraces, and must have been very grand; but are now totally neglected, and the alleys strewed with fragments of statues, broken to pieces by the revolutionists. The apartments appear to have been fitted up in a light and cheerful stile, and those of the grand front command a fine view of the Loire. The extensive deer park, which is surrounded by a wall, is now turned up and cultivated. I inquired of the people in the house to whom the demesne at present belonged, but they could not tell me. Doubtless, it is the property of some parvenu, who resides at Paris, where he can conceal the meanness of his origin in the crowd, or, at least, where he may find a host of fellow upstarts to keep him in countenance.

I had intended remaining the night at a village near this mansion, but the people of the auberge were so uncivil, that I determined to proceed. French and English innkeepers are perhaps equally extortionate; but by the latter you are, at least, civilly cheated, while the former fleece you, and at the same time treat you with neglect, if not impertinence. You may alight from your carriage or horse without attendance, and it is often some time before you can find any one that will take the trouble of shewing you a room; besides, as there are no bells in one house out of ten, you must go to the kitchen yourself for whatever you want. Another nuisance in French inns, is the coarse strapping wenches who usually attend, and whose loquacity and impudent familiarity there is no checking.

About three leagues from the village I met with a small house and a more civil reception, and here I put up for the night. The succeeding morning (March 19) I pursued my journey, through a flat country, along the banks of the Loire, to the middling sized town of Meung, where I experienced scarcely more a civil reception from the host and hostess of the Turk’s Head than if they had been Turks themselves. I therefore quitted them in the morning without breakfast, and reached Orleans at two o’clock.