DEAR PORTALEGRE!

I CANNOT quit thee, for the fourth and last time, without a parting tribute to the remembrance of thy wild romantic scenery, and to the kindness and hospitality of thy worthy citizens! May thy gates continue shut to thine enemies as heretofore, and, as heretofore, may they ever prove those of happiness to thy friends! Dear nuns of Santa Clara! I thank thee for the enjoyment of many an hour of nothingness; and thine, Santa Barbara, for many of a more intellectual cast! May the voice of thy chapel-organ continue unrivalled but by the voices of thy lovely choristers! and may the piano in thy refectory be replaced by a better, in which the harmony of strings may supersede the clattering of ivories! May the sweets which thou hast lavished on us be showered upon thee ten thousand fold! And may those accursed iron bars divide thee as effectually from death as they did from us!!
    April 15th.— Quartered at Castello Branco.
    This town had been so often visited by the French and us alternately that the inhabitants at length confounded their friends with their foes; and, by treating both sides as enemies, they succeeded in making them so.
    When I went this evening to present my billet on a respectable looking house, the door was opened by the lady of it wearing a most gingerly aspect. She told me, with an equivocal sort of look, that she had two spare beds in the house, and that either of them were at my service; and, by way of illustration, shewed me into a sort of servant's room, off the kitchen, half full of apples, onions, potatoes, and various kinds of lumber, with a dirty looking bed in one corner; and, on my requesting to see the other, she conducted me up to the garret, into the very counterpart of the one below, though the room was somewhat differently garnished. I told her that they were certainly two capital beds, but, as I was a modest person, and disliked all extremes, that I should be quite satisfied with any one on the floor which I had not yet seen. This, however, she told me, was impossible, as every one of them were required by her own family. While we were descending the stair, disputing the point, I caught the handle of the first door that I came to, twisted it open, and seeing it a neat little room, with nothing but a table and two or three chairs, I told her that it would suit me perfectly and, desiring her to have a good mattress with clean linen laid in one corner of it by nine o'clock, adding a few hints to satisfy her that I was quite in earnest, I went to dine with my messmates.
    When I returned to the house, about ten o'clock, I was told that I should find a light in the room and my bed ready. I accordingly ascended and found everything as represented; and, in addition thereto, I found another bed lying alongside of mine, containing a huge fat friar, with a bald pate, fast asleep, and blowing the most tremendous nasal trumpet that I ever heard! As my friend had evidently been placed there for my annoyance, I did not think it necessary to use much ceremony in getting rid of him and, catching him by the two ears, I raised him up on his legs, while he groaned in a seeming agonized doubt, whether the pain was inflicted by a man or a nightmare; and before he had time to get himself broad awake, I had chucked him and his clothing, bed and bedding, out at the door, which I locked, and enjoyed a sound sleep the remainder of the night.
    They offered me no further molestation; but, in taking my departure at daylight next morning, I observed my landlady reconnoitring me from an upstairs window and thought it prudent not to go too near it.
    While we had been employed at Badajoz Marmont had advanced in the north and blockaded Ciudad Rodrigo and Almeida, sending advanced parties into the frontier towns of Portugal, to the confusion and consternation of the Portuguese militia, who had been stationed for their protection and who, quite satisfied with the report of their coming, did not think it necessary to wait the report of their cannon. Marshal Beresford, in his paternal address to "Los Valerossos," a commemoration of their conduct on this occasion, directed that the colours of each regiment should be lodged in the town-halls of their respective districts, until they each provided themselves with a pair out of the ranks of the enemy; but I never heard that any of them were redeemed in the manner prescribed.
    The French retired upon Salamanca on our approach and we resumed our former quarters without opposition.
    Hitherto we had been fighting the description of battle in which John Bull glories so much — gaining a brilliant and useless victory against great odds. But we were now about to contend for fame on equal terms; and, having tried both, I will say, without partiality, that I would rather fight one man than two any day; for I have never been quite satisfied that the additional quantum of glory altogether compensated for the proportionate loss of substance, a victory of that kind being a doubtful and most unsatisfactory one to the performers, with each occupying the same ground after that they did before and the whole merit resting with the side which did not happen to begin it.
    We remained about two months in cantonments to recover the effects of the late sieges; and as by that time all the perforated skins and repairable cracked limbs had been mended, the army was assembled in front of Ciudad Rodrigo to commence what may be termed the second campaign of 1812.
    The enemy retired from Salamanca on our approach, leaving garrisons in three formidable little forts, which they had erected on the most commanding points of the city, and which were immediately invested by a British division.
    Salamanca, as a city, appeared to me to be more ancient than respectable; for, excepting an old cathedral and a new square, I saw nothing in it worth looking at, always saving and excepting their pretty little girls, who (the deuce take them) cost me two nights good sleep. For, by way of doing a little dandy in passing through such a celebrated city, I disencumbered the under part of my saddle of the blanket and the upper part of the boat-cloak with which it was usually adorned; and the penalty which I paid for my gentility was sleeping the next two nights in position two miles in front of the town, while these useful appendages were lying on the baggage two miles in rear of it.
    The heights of St Christoval, which we occupied as a position to cover the siege, were strong, but quite unsheltered and unfurnished with either wood or water. We were indebted for our supplies of the latter to the citizens of Salamanca, while stubbles and dry grass were our only fuel.
    Marmont came down upon us the first night with a thundering cannonade and placed his army en masse on the plain before us, almost within gun shot. I was told that, while Lord Wellington was riding along the line under a fire of artillery and accompanied by a numerous staff, that a brace of greyhounds, in pursuit of a hare, passed close to him. He was at the moment in earnest conversation with General Castanos, but the instant he observed them he gave the view hallo and went after them at full speed, to the utter astonishment of his foreign accompaniments. Nor did he stop until he saw the hare killed, when he returned and resumed the commander-in-chief as if nothing had occurred.
    The enemy next morning commenced a sharp attack on our advanced post in the village of Moresco; and, as it continued to be fed by both sides, there was every appearance of its bringing on a general action; but they desisted towards the afternoon and the village remained divided between us.
    Marmont, after looking at us for several days, did not think it prudent to risk an attack on our present post; and, as the telegraph-rockets from the town told him that his garrison was reduced to extremity, he crossed the Tormes on the night of the 26th June in the hopes of being able to relieve them from that side of the river. Our division followed his movement and took post for the night at Aldea Lingua. They sent forward a strong reconnoitring party at daylight next morning, but they were opposed by General Bock's brigade of heavy German dragoons, who would not permit them to see more than was necessary; and, as the forts fell into our hands the same night, Marmont had no longer an object in remaining there and fell back behind the Douro, occupying the line of Toro and Tordesillas.
    By the accidental discharge of a musket one day last year the ramrod entered the belly, passed through the body and the end of it stuck in the backbone of one of the soldiers of our division, from whence it was actually hammered out with a stone. The poor fellow recovered and joined his regiment, as well as ever he had been, and was last night unfortunately drowned while bathing in the Tormes.
    When the enemy retired, our division advanced and occupied Rueda, a handsome little town on the left bank of the Douro.
    It abounded in excellent wines, and our usual evening dances began there to be graced by a superior class of females to what they had hitherto been accustomed. I remember that, in passing the house of the sexton one evening, I saw his daughter baking a loaf of bread; and, falling desperately in love with both her and the loaf, I carried the one to the ball and the other to my quarters. A woman was a woman in those days and every officer made it a point of duty to marshal as many as he could to the general assembly, no matter whether they were countesses or sextonesses; and although we, in consequence, frequently incurred the most indelible disgrace among the better orders of our indiscriminate collection, some of whom would retire in disgust, yet, as a sufficient number generally remained for our evening's amusement, and we were only birds of passage, it was a matter of the most perfect indifference to us what they thought; we followed the same course wherever we went.
    The French army having, in the meantime, been largely reinforced and as they commanded the passage of the Douro, we were in hourly expectation of an offensive movement from them. As a precautionary measure, one-half of our division bivouacked every night in front of the town. On the evening of the 16th of July it was our turn to be in quarters, and we were in the full enjoyment of our usual evening's amusement when the bugles sounded to arms.
    As we had previously experienced two false alarms in the same quarters we thought it more than probable that this might prove one also and therefore prevailed upon the ladies to enjoy themselves until our return upon the good things which we had provided for their refreshment, and out of which I hope they drew enough of consolation for our absence, as we have not seen them since.
    After forming on our alarm-post, we were moved off in the dark we knew not whither, but every man following the one before him with the most implicit confidence, until, after marching all night, we found ourselves on the following morning at daylight near the village of Castrejon where we bivouacked for the day.
    I was sent on piquet on the evening of the 19th to watch a portion of the plain before us and soon after sunrise on the following morning a cannonade commenced behind a hill to my right; and, though the combatants were not visible, it was evident that they were not dealing in blank-cartridge, as mine happened to be the pitching-post of all the enemy's round shot. While I was attentively watching its progress, there arose all at once behind the rising ground to my left a yell of the most terrific import; and, convinced that it would give instantaneous birth to as hideous a body, it made me look with an eye of lightning at the ground around me; and, seeing a broad deep ditch within a hundred yards, I lost not a moment in placing it between my piquet and the extraordinary sound. I had scarcely effected the movement when Lord Wellington, with his staff and a cloud of French and English dragoons and horse artillery intermixed, came over the hill at full cry, and all hammering at each others' heads in one confused mass over the very ground I had that instant quitted. It appeared that his Lordship had gone there to reconnoitre, covered by two guns and two squadrons of cavalry, who by some accident were surprised and charged by a superior body of the enemy and sent tumbling in upon us in the manner described. A piquet of the forty-third had formed on our right, and we were obliged to remain passive spectators of such an extraordinary scene going on within a few yards of us, as we could not fire without an equal chance of shooting some of our own side. Lord Wellington and his staff, with the two guns, took shelter for the moment behind us, while the cavalry went sweeping along our front, where, I suppose, they picked up some reinforcement, for they returned almost instantly in the same confused mass; but the French were now the flyers; and I must do them the justice to say that they got off in a manner highly creditable to themselves. I saw one in particular defending himself against two of ours, and he would have made his escape from both, but an officer of our dragoons came down the hill and took him in flank at full speed, sending man and horse rolling headlong on the plain.
    I was highly interested all this time in observing the distinguished characters which this unlooked-for turn-up had assembled around us. Marshal Beresford and the greater part of the staff remained with their swords drawn and the Duke himself did not look more than half-pleased, while he silently despatched some of them with orders. General Alten and his huge German orderly dragoon, with their swords drawn, cursed the whole time to a very large amount, but, as it was in German, I had not the full benefit of it. He had an opposition swearer in Captain Jenkinson of the artillery, who commanded the two guns and whose oaths were chiefly aimed at himself for his folly, as far as I could understand, in putting so much confidence in his covering party that he had not thought it necessary to unfix the catch which horse-artillerymen, I believe, had to prevent their swords quitting the scabbards when they are not wanted, and which, on this occasion, prevented their jumping forth when they were so unexpectedly called for.
    The straggling enemy had scarcely cleared away from our front when Lord Combermere came from the right with a reinforcement of cavalry and our piquet was at the same moment ordered to join the battalion.
    The movements which followed presented the most beautiful military spectacle imaginable. The enemy were endeavouring to turn our left and, in making a counteracting movement, the two armies were marching in parallel lines, close to each other on a perfect plain, each ready to take advantage of any opening of the other and exchanging round shot as they moved along. Our division brought up the rear of the infantry, marching with the order and precision of a field-day in open column of companies and in perfect readiness to receive the enemy in any shape, who on their part had a huge cavalry force close at hand and equally ready to pounce upon us. Our movement was supported by a formidable body of our own dragoons; and, as we drew near the bank of the small river Guerrena, our horse-artillery continued to file in the same line to attract the attention of the enemy, while we gradually distanced them a little and crossed the river into a position on the high grounds beyond it. The enemy passed the river on our left and endeavoured to force that part of the position; but the troops who were stationed there drove them back with great loss and at dark the firing ceased.
    During the early part of the 19th there appeared to be no movements on either side; but in the afternoon, having fallen asleep in my tent, I was awoke by the whistling of a cannon shot and was just beginning to abuse my servant for not having called me sooner when we were ordered to stand to our arms, and, as the enemy were making a movement to our right, we made a corresponding one. The cannonade did not cease until dark, when we lay down by our arms, the two armies very near to each other and fully expecting a general action on the morrow.
    July 20th. — We stood to our arms an hour before daylight and Lord Wellington held out every inducement for his opponent to attack him; but Marmont evaded it and continued his movement on our right, which obliged us to continue ours towards Salamanca; and we were a great part of this day in parallel lines with them, the same as on the 18th.
    July 21st. — We crossed the Tormes just before dark this evening, about two miles above Salamanca, the enemy having passed it higher up. Before reaching our ground, we experienced one of the most tremendous thunderstorms that I ever witnessed. A sheet of lightning struck the head of our column, where I happened to be riding, and deprived me of the use of my optics for at least ten minutes. A great many of our dragoon horses broke from their piqueting during the storm and galloped past us into the French lines. We lay by our arms on the banks of the river and it continued to rain in torrents the whole of the night.

July 22d. — A sharp fire of musketry commenced at daylight in the morning; but, as it did not immediately concern us and was nothing unusual, we took no notice of it, but busied ourselves in getting our arms and our bodies disengaged from the rust and the wet engendered by the storm of the past night.
    About ten o'clock our division was ordered to stand to their arms and then moved into position, with our left resting on the Tormes and our right extending along a ridge of rising ground, thinly interspersed with trees, beyond which the other divisions were formed in continuation, with the exception of the third which still remained on the opposite bank of the river.
    The enemy were to be seen in motion on the opposite ridges, and a straggling fire of musketry, with an occasional gun, acted as a sort of prelude to the approaching conflict. We heard, about this time, that Marmont had just sent to his ci-devant landlord, in Salamanca, to desire that he would have the usual dinner ready for himself and staff at six o'clock; and so satisfied was "mine host" of the infallibility of the French Marshal that he absolutely set about making the necessary preparations.
    There assuredly never was an army so anxious as ours was to be brought into action on this occasion. They were a magnificent body of well-tried soldiers, highly equipped and in the highest health and spirits, with the most devoted confidence in their leader and an invincible confidence in themselves. The retreat of the four preceding days had annoyed us beyond measure, for we believed that we were nearly equal to the enemy in point of numbers and the idea of our retiring before an equal number of any troops in the world was not to be endured with common patience.
    We were kept the whole of the forenoon in the most torturing state of suspense through contradictory reports, one passing officer telling us that he had just heard the order given to attack, and the next asserting with equal confidence that he had just heard the order to retreat; and it was not until about two o'clock in the afternoon that affairs began to wear a more decided aspect and when our own eyes and ears at length conveyed the wished-for tidings that a battle was inevitable; for we saw the enemy beginning to close upon our right and the cannonade had become general along the whole line. Lord Wellington about the same time ordered the movement which decided the fate of the day—that of bringing the third division from beyond the river on our left rapidly to our extreme right, turning the enemy in their attempt to turn us and commencing the offensive with the whole of his right wing. The effect was instantaneous and decisive, for although some obstinate and desperate fighting took place in the centre, with various success, yet the victory was never for a moment in doubt and the enemy were soon in full retreat, leaving seven thousand prisoners, two eagles, and eleven pieces of artillery in our hands. Had we been favoured with two hours more daylight their loss would have been incalculable, for they committed a blunder at starting, which they never got time to retrieve and their retreat was therefore commenced in such disorder, and with a river in their rear, that nothing but darkness could have saved them.

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